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Friday, 20 October 2017

Abenormals Salamanders



Hello everyone,

I'm Abenormal, Abe for short, or Mr. Normal if you're nasty (also well done to the 3 of you who got that reference.)

I've been a member of Section 8 gaming club for many years now and play a wide variety of games, but more on that later.

As a quick introduction of myself I thought I would put some pictures up of my Salamanders army for heresy.


My Praetor


 As you can see neither painting, nor photography are my strong suits and I will be the first to admit I did not push my self with this army. I am just about to start my next heresy army and I will be looking to improve my technique but again, I digress.

praetor with his command squad.
Feel free to add your own Resivoir Dogs soundtrack.


I went pretty heavily with the scaled cloak with this army with most important models getting one to make them stand out. I feel that finding someway of personalising your army is an important element to add.







This was one of the first models I ever patined for this army and I was always happy with the results. Anyway, I shall be posted more articles on here periodically, enjoy.

Wednesday, 18 October 2017

Painting British WWII tanks using an armoured car!

Hello again, this time I'm going to talk through how I paint my bolt action British tanks. To do it step by step I needed an example and I have no tanks left to do so here's a British AEC armoured car mark III from warlord games. It's a 1/56th scale model, so fits around 25-28mm. First up, clean the model up, I use a scalpel for this, sharper than a hobby knife and pretty dangerous if you mess it up but I find it's quick and you get a good finish. I use GW clippers as the current ones get really close to the model. I used thick super glue for fast drying. Small amount of green stuff to fill gaps for the MMG and help hold one of the wheels, if I have troubles with these I'll pin them in future.




Next up, undercoat. As said previously, at section 8 we use a lot of u-pol matt black, same finish as GW for a third of the price, goes on resin, plastic and metal with ease.




Next, base coat. Vallejo Olive Green from the airbrush range. A thin layer across all armoured surfaces, try to avoid wheel or tracks but this isn't imperative as we will clean this up later.





Next stage, a coat of castellan green from the GW air range. Avoiding the recesses, which should stay olive green. Use a narrow spray so you have more control for this and use less flow so you don't overdo an area. I set the airbrush at 2.5 PSI. I'm still a relative novice with this but even I am getting some graduations from dark to light on a model. Aim for the raised surfaces most.




Last, I use small amounts of death world forest on the most raise areas and some of the edge, this is a very light coat. This is the bit where it will look rubbish if you overdo it. British tanks are quite a dark green by nature. Mind are a little lighter to show some graduations of colour, but don't overdo it. At this point repaint the tyres black, for tracks I use a 1:1:1 mix of black/warplock bronze/dryad bark.





Next, a really important stage, weathing. First I use a light coat of steel Legion drab air around the "skirt" area of the tank, this is for a slightly muddy feel. Then, using the ubiquitous agrarian earthshake I airbrush a small amount into the wheels/tracks to add definition to the wheels, this could be done over the whole tank with care and sponged off using cotton buds. 





Lastly painting wise, final weathering. We go back to the 1:1:1 mix for tracks from earlier. This should be lightly sponger on the areas you want to weather. Remember that less is more, especially for me as I find when I overdo it, it looks really poor.





Final step isn't really painting- apply transfers. I'll go through my method. It's different to Davecofilms, however, it achieves good results and is a bit faster:

1. Wet the transfer pre-cut and ready to go and ensure the surface is clear of debris
2. Apply a thin film of clean water to the surface, slide the transfer on and position it
3 Make sure it's drying and the excess water has gone, apply a thin layer of the decal fix. With an irregular surface apply this earlier as it shapes the transfer to the surface
4 after allowing the transfer to fully dry add a layer of Vallejo Matt varnish, wither with a brush or using an airbrush, ensure its thinned about 1 part water to 2 parts varnish.

There you go! One completed armoured car, ready for battle!


Sunday, 15 October 2017

Small yet Mighty!

Most of the posts on this Blog will cover the broad aspects of games, painting and collecting. People who follow it will have seen some of the models we have. But these models and the games they are used in depict only tiny snippet or window into that world. A large game, let us make an example of Horus Heresy (a game best suited to large battles from the dawn of the Imperium) might have a 100+ models and a good handful of tanks. It stirs the soul for us Wargamers when we see two lovingly painted forces clash on themed terrain. When you play those games, you can well imagine yourself as a fearless hero leading your forces to battle. In Horus Heresy and even Historical games like Bolt Action.

But You can have more…

This article will be about even bigger games again. Now not all of us can afford a football pitch sized table and fighter command Battle of Britain style move sticks to shuffle the forces around. Enter the 10mm Wargame! Most of the Games we play are around the 28mm size (Heroic scale or 1/54 scale) 10mm Scale is a different monster. Many of you will remember Epic and Warmaster, it's this style of games I am talking about today!

This is my late war American Army. Left to right  (Models on small round bases are Recce units and are a mix of M5 Stuart Tanks, M8 Greyhounds and Willis Jeeps) Models on square bases are HQs and or Artillery.




Top: M26 Pershing Tank Company, Sherman Tank Battalion (including 76mm, 75mm and 105mm Sherman variants) 2nd Sherman Tank Battalion (same as first) Anti-Tank Battalion (M10s and M18s with a fully company of 76mm Anti-tank guns and 2 Artillery Companies (x1 with Priest SPGs and x1 with 105mm guns with trucks).

Middle: Mechanised Regiment (x3 Battalions mounted in Trucks and Halftraks). Engineering Battalion

Bottom: Old Blood and Guts Patton himself! Then an Infantry Regiment (x3 over strength battalions)

I have a Japanese army for Bolt Action. That roughly represents two re-enforced platoons form a WWII Japanese army. But for my 10mm Forces I have quite a bit more. When you shrink the scale, you increase the numbers. When you play 10mm games (sometimes called “Grand Scale”) you become more than a front-line commander, you are elevated to an Army Commander! Rather than a dashing and heroic Captain or Lieutenant on a horse at the battle of Waterloo you become Wellington himself. Imagine the film Saving Private Ryan, that for my example is Bolt Action – Squads of soldiers in a desperate battle to survive and achieve their objectives. Now one of my Favourite games is Blitzkrieg Commander - this is like the film The Longest Day. In this game you don’t have time for squads and individual actions, you are too busy fighting the entire D-Day invasion!

Blitzkrieg Commander is a very clever game that borrows from Warmaster and a few other Grand Scale games. It covers all WWII periods and the vast majority of the Forces too. Your army centres around a Commanding Officer (CO) and a number of Headquarters Units (HQ) they in turn are responsible for commanding your forces. Each CO or HQ has a command Value, that determines how effective they are at commanding the forces attached to them.

Quick Example; Each HQ is in Command of a Battalion of Infantry. In that Battalion might be nine platoons of Soldiers accompanied by machine gun, anti-tank, mortar and recon platoons. Then you may have two more battalions of soldiers. Let’s not leave out the support, maybe you could have a tank battalion or two (also needing an HQ) and why not throw in some artillery and air support. 


Oh... you have a Tiger Platoon? Well I have a Tank Regiment!


Sherman Tank Battalion, with HQ (Stuart Command Tank) on a square base and Recce (M5 Stuart Light Tank) On round base


 Blood and Guts Patton, Take care he will slap any privates not up for the job!

Now you don’t just fight a one of the many battles on D-Day, you fight THE battle of D-Day. 

Small scale yet Mighty Games!

All of the Models shown are from Pendraken Miniatures with the Exception of the x3 M26 Pershing Tanks, that are from Pithead miniatures.

Friday, 13 October 2017

Painting Spaces - DAVECO



Painting Spaces – DAVECO 

Like Stonedrose I am lucky to have a room dedicated to painting. Though as you see mine is a little more anarchic than his. I have a DAVECO original art work at the back of my painting desk. Not as epic as the wolf king but it changes every time I use the airbrush.

Daylight lamps. Get them! It will make things better!


I tend to keep all of the colours and stuff I use the most out near to me and hoard other stuff packed manically away in a semblance of order. That said if there is a thing needed or a bit to be found, in our group its normally me who has it.


The Legendary DAVECO stash of bits!


I too am a Hobby butterfly, jumping from thing to thing. BUT once I get a good project I can be a little obsessed by it, a good example is my Horus Heresy Deathguard Army. Painted a small Allied force for my Night Lords (more on them coming soon).

They were a totally different painting challenge and just over a year later… well… massive Deathguard Army.


Actually this photo is little out of date, I have one more Leviathan Dreadnought and some Vorax Battle Automata to add.



When painting I do enjoy some music or an audio-book, even a film on in the background just to fill in.

When do I paint? Well normally an hour or two after work then a good long blast on a Saturday. Sunday is taken up by the Club, that you can naturally paint at as we have a nice little painting table.

And that’s it in all honesty, if you want to have huge well painted forces you have to put the graft in.


Thursday, 12 October 2017

Painting Spaces- JB

Hello folks,

So my painting space...well...errr it's more of a... hmmmm

Well here it is.




So there you have it.
My space has changed quite a bit over the years, and this is its current iteration.

It's an easy set up table, an old comfy blanket, and a box of paints. The Feline assistant is optional.

I grew up having to drape my mam's dining room table in newspaper, and putting yet more paper on the floor at my feet. It was a full on military operation and it eventually began to drive me away from my hobby. I was spending more time setting up than I was painting. Something had to change.

That change was to be the TV dinner table. This actually allowed me to sit for hours on end, usually watching TV or listening to music, painting to my hearts content. My mojo was soon back with a vengeance, figures exploding from all angles.

This is where I usually paint, but I do have a neater, more contemporary space where I sometimes work if I need a change of scenery, but that is just a desk with a day light bulb in the lamp.

For me the TV table was one of the best things to happen for my hobby and painting. Everyone has something different, something that just clicks for them and this is it for me. Simple, not professional in the slightest, but functional, and for me that's all I need.

Thanks Guys!
More Figures to come soon!

Painting Spaces- Stonedrose

More of an interest article this time. An all important but rarely considered topic- painting spaces. I'm currently pretty lucky, I have a hobby room, purposely kitted out for all my needs. However, this wasn't always the case. I originally painted at the dining room table as I suppose most did. A plastic table cloth was of utmost importance so that my Mam didn't kick my arse for any paint spillage! I went up in the world (depends how you look at it...) to painting in the shed, it was pretty cold but a little electric heater sorted this out. Earwigs were a problem too, falling out of the ceiling and landing in my water, the odd woodlouse made an appearance too... So where are we today? Well I thought myself and fellow bloggers at Section 8 could share how they go about painting and share some pics of the painting areas they use, let's make it easy for everyone and use the same headings. Maybe we can learn a bit from one another: Where? Well for me I spray outside in a cardboard box, I airbrush in the hobby room where my stuff is set up and I have a well ventilated room with two roof windows and a spray box with a fan. My hobby room is well lit with white LED lights and should be the perfect painting space....however, life gets in the way and staying upstairs alone is pretty unsociable. So, I use a kneeboard (one for painting and one for assembling) and often paint in front of the TV, I find I'm better painting with some sound so if not the TV, then the radio or some music.

 
My airbrushing station, complete with spray booth, note the mask nearby, look after your lungs people!


I make sure The Wolf King blesses all my painting


When? Because it's easy to pick up a kneeboard I paint whenever I want, often weeknights and I do get a couple of afternoons off so if I have nothing to be getting on with I'll often pick up my latest project. I also paint a the club, where lighting is not at it's best but we're trying to address that. I acknowledge that since I really enjoy painting this is pretty easy for me, but i acknowledge that some might not paint as often as I do. It's a motivation thing, I'm usually painting every 2-3 days for a few hours, if I'm not it's a bit of a red light that I'm not at my happiest.

 
Painting knee board and GW project box, which is pretty good but it seems to me everyone has a hinge missing after a while


Assembly knee board 


 How? 

 I use citadel paints mainly, I also use vallejo airbrush paints and forgeworld airbrush paints. I've experimented with all kinds of stuff over the years and find that continuing to experiment is good, the products you use definitely affect your painting. I use U-POL Matt black for undercoats, its a matt car spray and there's more in it that citadel for 1/4 of the price. I base largely with sand, cork and grass tufts, I also use pre-cast bases and have even had my own cast. I use two water pots, one for metallics and one for non-metallics and get clear water regularly. I use a tile for mixing as it's easy to clear with hot water, I have a wet pallet but I'm not really experienced with it yet.

 
Display cabinet, mine are from Ikea, good for storage and displaying your best stuff, or for the storing the denial that comes when GW kill off WFB...


Display cabinet two, you never know when you might need to dress up as Optimus prime...


So, where do you paint? What tips do you have? What works and what doesn't? We'd love to hear about it in the comments section and the other contributors should be posting their own ideas soon...

Wednesday, 11 October 2017

Warhammer total war 2

Well I caved and bought this, I enjoyed the first but it gave me WFB nostalgia...I looked at my high elf army and realised I couldn't play them. I can't be bothered to pick up ninth age, but wait Warhammer Total War 2 is different- High Elves are in it, I can play fantasy again!

I guess I bought this on steam in a whim, my partner is pregnant and goes to bed super early and there only some much painting you can do. So after a couple of hours downloading from steam it had to be High Elves first, what's more, it had to be Tyrion. 

I was working in GW as a student in what they called a "key time" position when Turin came out, I loved the model then and still do now, here he is for those who haven't seen/ don't remember:


Now, as far as I can remember there have been versions of Tyrion since second edition WFB, he was as much a hero then as now and he's definitely better than that dude in game of thrones...

So I set off on my quest with Tyrion, to save the old world and stop WFB from ever becoming Age of Sigmar and save my high elf army from a dusty shelf...


Here's the pixelated Tyrion, Malhandir his horse is so hard he's quite happy to nibble grass whilst there is a flaming magic sword next to him...

So, because I'm no ardent video gamer, I'm going to review this in terms I understand, so bear with me-

How does it look?

Pretty much amazing really, considering how much is on screen at once, may laptop  is two year old but was top of the line when I bought it and it has a good graphics card, however, even it had to be played on lowest settings to get it to run at a reasonable pace. So, my Tyrion isn't as sharp as the one above, he gets a bit less Elven skirt but he still kicks butt.

9/10

Gameplay 

Virtually the same as the last game from what I can tell, I'm not too far into it but whatever skill I developed before has stayed for this game. The interface is easy and you can still zoom in and watch your guys fight up close (as long as you're winning, been caught in that trap before- wow, don't these spearmen look great gutting dark elves....aaaand the entire right flank has collapsed). There is an element of fighting the same battle over and over at times, but the last game suffered from that too. I enjoy the campaign as it's different to before with more urgency and different goals, though I'll not give the game away. Ultimately I am still in hope of stopping Age of Sigmar from ever happening.

8/10

Longevity

I'm hoping this is better than the last game, I think different races will firstly play very differently but their goals and geography will be so distinct it should be very fresh, so an improvement here. It is a long game however, so the fans who can dedicate their time to it will be better off than people like myself fighting the odd battle here and there.

8/10

The most important question- is it like Warhammer Fantasy Battle?

Yes, yes it is....I cried a bit, Tyrion is like Tyrion, you can get him all his magic items, his horse is fast enough to race red rum and with the right machine he looks good enough to turn you on in that weird gender neutral elven way. I outflanked an army by refusing the flank WFB style yesterday and saved it to replay it, it looked great, I was amazing, Elves were shouting my name, maidens were flocking to my tent, Teclis had a rough cold and everything was as it should be in the old world, then a gold figure rush into my tent and I died of a heart attack as I thought it was a Sigmarine, my last vision was of a fat Phoenix guard looking over me

10/10


Take his cloak off, make him weight 180kg and anyone would be mistaken....

Overall 9/10